A frozen watering point means an animal simply cannot drink, which quickly affects health and weight gain. In winter, reliably protecting your watering systems from frost is one of the key tasks in a barn, and there are several approaches, depending on barn size, the length of the water pipework, and whether electricity is available.
Ball drinkers without electricity
The simplest solution for smaller groups is a ball drinker, which works without an electrical connection. Water from the ground flows into the drinking bowl at a temperature of around 10 °C and fills it until the ball closes the opening. The temperature of the water that spills over as animals drink keeps the bowl warm when it is cold outside and cool when it is hot outside, keeping the water fresh and free of algae at both -30 °C and +30 °C.
How well such a drinker performs depends on how many animals use it. A minimum of 5 animals ensures functional operation down to roughly -5 to -15 °C, depending on the model, while with 15 animals some models remain frost-free down to -30 °C. This means such a drinker is not suitable for very small groups in severe frost, since without enough water traffic there is not enough heat to prevent freezing.
When installing, it is important that the water supply runs below the frost depth and that the drinker is mounted on a concrete base roughly 30 cm wider than the drinker on each side. The recommended installation depth is the frost depth plus about 30 cm, and the area below the drinker should not be concreted, so it can draw on geothermal warmth.
Circulation heating systems for larger barns
Where a barn has several drinking points connected to a shared water network, a circulation heating system is a sensible solution. Once switched on, a pump continuously circulates water around the loop, while the heater is controlled by a thermostat, so it switches on only when needed. The circulating pipe run can be up to 200 to 350 metres long depending on the pump model, and the pipes must carry at least 30 mm of insulation.
When planning such a system, also take into account:
- the maximum allowed height difference between flow and return, which is 5 m for smaller models and up to 7 m for higher-capacity ones,
- the need for a 30 mA residual current device, which must be installed on site,
- that any supply section where water does not circulate must be protected against frost by special measures, such as a heating cable.
An alternative is a flow pump, which quickly circulates water in the loop without additional heating, giving substantially lower power consumption. This suits smaller barns with moderately cold periods, and the pipework must run above ground.
Heating cables for water pipes
Where a circulation system is not practical, heating cables protect individual pipe runs. A standard heating cable delivers up to 16 W per metre at 0 °C, comes with a thermostat that switches on at 3 °C and off at 12 °C, and the pipe needs at least 13 mm of additional insulation. Self-regulating heating cables work differently: their output automatically and steplessly adjusts to the pipe temperature, meaning less energy is used when the frost is not severe.
A few rules worth following when installing heating cables:
- the cable is laid stretched out along the underside of the pipe and secured with insulating tape every 30 cm,
- cables must not touch each other,
- the minimum bending radius of the cable is 50 mm, and the cable must not be pinched,
- for plastic water pipes, wrapping the pipe with aluminium adhesive tape before installation is recommended for better heat transfer.
Installation in line with the VDE 0100 standard must be carried out by a qualified electrician, and water pipework must be earthed and protected with a 30 mA residual current device.
Heated drinkers and transformers
For safety reasons, heated drinkers use a transformer that steps the mains voltage of 230 V down to a safe 24 V for animals, so even if a cable is damaged, for instance by an animal biting it, there is no danger to animals or people. Mount the transformer as close to the drinker as possible, but outside the animals' reach. The thermostat sits between the socket and the heater and automatically switches the system on once the temperature drops below the set threshold, switching it off again once the risk of frost has passed.
To choose the right transformer, add up the required power of all heated drinkers and heating cables in the system. For example, 5 drinkers at 80 W each require 400 W, and 5 heating cables at 20 W each add a further 100 W, for a total of 500 W, which could be covered by one 300 W transformer plus one 200 W transformer. At full heating load, the cross-section of the supply wires also matters: a thinner cable only carries the power over a shorter distance, while a larger cross-section allows longer runs at the same power.
All such 230 V systems must be installed by a qualified professional, since it involves connecting electrical and water lines in close proximity to animals.
Need advice?
PATURA is a German manufacturer of frost-resistant watering systems, and Kancler Sistem Pro is its Slovenian partner for sales and installation.
Before the first frost arrives, it is worth checking whether your pipework is protected well enough, and our team is glad to help you decide.